1. dmoskaluk's Avatar
    Having just replaced my old 2012 iMac with an essentially 'same' but new one I'd like to share my experience with 'peer-to-peer' Wifi data transfer which the initial set up on the new machine more or less steered me towards. It requires both machines to be on the same wifi network and is a simple step by step process. Or so they said...... When the progress bar advanced only about 1/4" of an approximately 8" length shown, after several hours, I dug a bit deeper with Apple Support web info,learning that the transfer can in truth take up to 60 hours, but the norm is more liken 24 to 30, and one must, although not directed to in the step by step instructions, disable any sleep function in both computers or the process will stop and possibly need to start again at the beginning. I gave up after about 8 hours, cancelled out the operation on both computers figuring that most of my material is web based and also in iCloud. Sure enough, it was an easy mornings busy work to do most of the reconstruction and probably a good time to 'clean up' a lot while I was there.
    They also suggested wired connection between the computers (Thunderbolt?) but as an awareness thing I'd really NOT suggest undertaking the wifi transfer. My wifi home network runs normally at about 40mbps download and 20mbps upload and is reasonably steady as these things go.
    Last edited by dmoskaluk; 01-04-2020 at 07:07 PM.
    Lee_Bo likes this.
    01-04-2020 06:48 PM
  2. Lee_Bo's Avatar
    Hey @dmoskaluk.

    Ouch, that sounded painfully slow. While I've never bought one Mac to replace another, I've always thought connecting via a cable would work best. I may find out this year (hopefully).
    01-06-2020 03:24 PM
  3. dmoskaluk's Avatar
    It was SO slow that having started mid morning, I quit the process at bedtime saying I'd look at it all again following day, then decided when I awoke to simply dive on and get to it myself and use the fact that most of my resources were on iCloud or Web based so it wouldn't be a big job, which it wasn't. Then the Catalina update thing happened so I hope it wasn't caused by any 'bits & pieces' of the aborted transfer ( which I had cancelled from both ends) but I'll now simply wait until the next incremental OS update , possibly March, to attempt..
    Last edited by dmoskaluk; 01-06-2020 at 03:48 PM.
    01-06-2020 03:30 PM
  4. bakron1's Avatar
    I always used migrate with an Ethernet connection and never had any issues. I always made sure the base OS on the new machine was the same version as the one I was copying from.
    01-06-2020 04:52 PM
  5. dmoskaluk's Avatar
    Yes Ethernet to Ethernet would have been an option except that the eithenet connectivity on my old machine was pooched years ago. But as all is shipshape with the new desktop now, I'll just hold off a bit. Incidentally, the issues which eventually forced my hand were increased problems with USB ports. And as I suspect the Ethernet port was trashed in a lightning strike possibly to a copper telephone line when I was still on ADSL, damage may have been done to the USB port area too but got worse with wear & tear. I lost an ADSL modem in that deal as well. Now I triple protect anything electrical from both surge and brownout and I'm told that fibre is a lot more resilient for the phone / Internet network cabling.
    01-06-2020 05:04 PM
  6. bakron1's Avatar
    Yes Ethernet to Ethernet would have been an option except that the eithenet connectivity on my old machine was pooched years ago. But as all is shipshape with the new desktop now, I'll just hold off a bit. Incidentally, the issues which eventually forced my hand were increased problems with USB ports. And as I suspect the Ethernet port was trashed in a lightning strike possibly to a copper telephone line when I was still on ADSL, damage may have been done to the USB port area too but got worse with wear & tear. I lost an ADSL modem in that deal as well. Now I triple protect anything electrical from both surge and brownout and I'm told that fibre is a lot more resilient for the phone / Internet network cabling.
    That does present a challenge, fortunately I have never had any lighting strikes or major power surges that have done any damage to my machines.

    I have gotten to the point when a major storm is on its way, I shut down all of my machines and pull out the power cords to prevent any surge issues, I have been lucky so far, knock on wood.
    01-06-2020 06:00 PM
  7. dmoskaluk's Avatar
    I was that way with unplugging all but now am comfortable (as possible) with how I protect especially considering that we have 'local thunderstorm activity' almost every night and most days between June & October. The real ugly one is 'power blackouts' within the electricity company service which at times I think is supplied by caged fireflies . If the lights go out I do the unplug drill and await restoration + 10 minutes for stability before reconnecting. Often restoration seems to involve lots of 'off & on activity' which can't be good, thus my 10 minute hiatus. From the mains, both in the bedroom ( big TV, cable box, DVD player, WiFi range extender, TV Antenna & cable boosters) I use a 'Tripp-lite' voltage controller & Surge protector first as it will trim an overvoltage situation or boost an undervoltage incident before actually shutting down. To that I use a fairly decent surge bar set -up designed for home entertainment. At my office area I also use a Tripp-lite box on mains, then a surge bar with nothing on it, except a second surge bar to which I connect the iMac, Modem / Router, Printer, Main Cordless phone / Answering machine. The electricity here is deemed by those in the know to be 'dirty' as brownouts show very frequently on devices which record low voltage incidents. Our service is 110/220, not 120/240 so is low to begin with and is 50Hz not 60. Many office & commercial outfits and now households as well use the TripLite boxes which unfortunately although having 8 outlets 4 are 'surge' control & 4 are 'voltage control'.


    https://www.tripplite.com/support/vr2008r

    I use a voltage controlled socket to connect to my downline surge bar(s).
    Where the 'unplug drill' comes up short is that when we are out, or sleeping it's a challenge. The $70/unit for the box is simply 'warm fuzzy feeling stuff' and I've never seen the over voltage warning lights flashing, But the under voltage caution happens often but power at 110 is probably right at the trigger point begin with.

    Just like 'shopping' and 'customer support', in the Caribbean, one must 'go with the flow'. ....
    Last edited by dmoskaluk; 01-06-2020 at 07:26 PM.
    01-06-2020 06:29 PM

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